Hoppers run on AC power yet the MPU that tells it to cash out runs on DC voltage. In order to do this a small interface called an SSR (Solid State Relay) is placed in between the MPU and the hopper. An SSR is a device in which DC voltage can control AC voltage.
The SSR will rarely go bad but if you have to check the power going to the hopper. This is where to check.
Slot machine for sale coin in coin out bill validator. Also buy and se. USA made in-house designed and tested universal tractor covers. Self Dumping Hopper. The slot machine is broadly divided into five electrical component sections; the power unit, the main logic board, the reel unit, the handle unit and the hopper unit. These are wired to-gether and if any of them malfunctions, the slot machine as a whole will not work nor-mally. When you think that there is something.
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Hopper is Full and Coins Go Down a Chute to Bottom of Machine. Slot machines that accept coins were designed this way because when used constantly on the casino floor, hoppers could quickly fill. There is a coin level probe on side of the hopper that looks like a brass screw sticking inward toward the hopper bowl. Borgata free online slots.
Once the cash out Button has been pressed the MPU send a signal through the SSR to the Hopper to begin cashing out. The coin out-optics or switch on the Hopper report back to the MPU, telling it how many coins has been paid out. Once the correct amount of credits has been given, the MPU shuts down the Hopper.
To test the hopper for the PE-Plus press the white self-test button to the test hopper page. Turn the reset-key to activate the hopper payout. This test page will pay out ten coins and is useful to see if the hopper is operating properly.
To run this test with the S-Plus push the white self-test switch until you see a “ 3 “ in the Coins Played Window then hit the spin button.
There is also an option located on the output page that will allow the hopper to run constantly until you stop it. To do this for the PE-Plus simply go to the output page use the deal-draw button until the arrow points to “HOPPER ONE” or “HOPPER TWO” ether one will work. When you turn the reset key, the hopper will run until you let go of the key.
For the S-Plus go to output page “ 2 “ then the turn the reset key to “ 35 “ once the spin button is pushed it will run until you let go.
The number one thing to go wrong by far is coin jams especially if you have a bar-top or slant-top game. Slant-tops and bar-tops have what is called the escalator that the coins have to slide up in order to get to the coin out tray. Any bent or foreign coin will jam up and cause general mayhem. If you are lucky, enough to have an upright game (because there easier to fix) then the bad coins will most often cause the coins to go under the knife.
The coin-out optic is located at the point where the coins exit the hopper. The coin-out optic tells the MPU how many coins have left the machine. If they go bad, they will generally cause a coin-out tilt. Most often, the wires leading to them are cut or mangled and no signal gets back to the MPU. Sometimes they get dirty and just need cleaning by blowing on them. (If the optics ground wire is not properly grounded it will cause a hopper runaway)
To remove the hopper simply open the door “or doors” remove the coin-in assembly and pull it out. If you have an upright game, you will not have to pull out the coin-in assembly since they are built into the door.
The hopper is connected to what is called the MOLEX connecter. All the wires from the coin-out optics and ac power for the hopper motor run through this.
The main components of a hopper depend on your game cabinet and game version. The most common are:
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• Knife: This is what the coins slide up on to exit the hopper.
• Shelf and Shelf Wheel: These are to plates one smaller than the other that the coins ride up on out of the bowl and to the knife.
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• Agitator: This is a star shaped thing usually made out of rubber or hard plastic that sits on the shelf in the middle of the bowl and stirs up the coins so they ride out.
• Escalator: This is for bar-top and slant-top models so when the coins exit the hopper they ride up the escalator and exit into the tray.
• Coin-Out Optics: Senses when a coin has or has not exited the hopper and informs the MPU.
Working on hoppers is not a fine science the only electric components are the coin-in optics and the electric motor. The electric motor can be hooked up to a wall socket to see if it works. Warning this is not suggested to be done because of obvious hazards and a proper test cord should be used when testing the motor.
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If the coin-out optic is having a problem the hopper will still work in test mode and will spit out coins. Everything else on a hopper is mechanical and was learned after years of having to fix them. Often slot techs carry their own home made tools and have deferent methods of repairing them.
Before ticket in ticket out I used to carry around five pounds of tools and parts to fix them, while other slot techs would just carry a screw driver to fix a hopper. Basically if you have mechanical experience working on things like cars or truck's you will most likely not have many problems. If you do not have mechanical experience then remember how things come apart so you can put it back together again. Write it down or take pictures if you have to.
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